Mount Waddington

As low as:

$5,215.00 / person

(at 2:1 ratio)
  • STRENUOUSNESS
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  • TECHNICAL DIFFICULTY
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Add-ons

Mountaineering Kit Rental $105.00

Ice Axe, Crampons, Helmet, Harness, Carabiners, Cords and Sling. All these items are required to participate in the course. See the precise technical gear requirements in the 'Gear List' tab within this course information webpage. Once purchased - our rentals are non-refundable.

About


The highest mountain in BC has a lure of course, but Mount Waddington is a very special peak for reasons beyond its place at the top of the elevation list. Set in a vast and dramatic wilderness, Waddington’s height is particularly noticeable when you stand on its 4015m summit and gaze out over the ocean. On this week-long trip into the Waddington range, we’ll aim to climb a few other peaks to acclimatize before heading for the main objective. Best done June to September. 

If you have some mountaineering experience and Waddington has been on your list (as it is for mountaineers the world over!), please get in touch to set up a trip.

Included in the price:

  • 7 days with an ACMG guide
  • Return helicopter flights
  • Group technical gear

Not included in the price:

  • Transportation to and from meeting point
  • Food
  • Personal gear (technical gear available for rent)
  • Accommodation before or after trip if required en route or at start/end point
  • Extra guide days caused by weather delays

Questions? Check out our FAQ page for details about our booking and cancellation policy, and other commonly asked questions.

Logistics


Please get in touch to discuss the logistics of this trip. Itinerary, route objectives and the number of days will vary depending on the group in question. 

We will discuss logistics upon booking and note specifics in the booking tab. Exact meeting details will be provided in a pre-trip email sent one-week prior to your trip. 
 
Questions? Check out our FAQ page for details, or send us an email. 

Requirements


Mount Waddington is a serious undertaking as an advanced and demanding route. To join this trip, we ask that participants:

  • Have scrambling experience and are comfortable soloing on 4th class ground
  • Have a high level of fitness (able to gain 1200m vertical gain carrying a 25kg load
  • Comfortable climbing up to 5.7 rock in mountain boots
  • Have taken Island Alpine Guides Mountain Skills course or equivalent 
  • Are comfortable with loose rock and exposure
  • Are willing to bivouac in the open

Preparation


This trip will take us up to just over 4000m in elevation. Regular hikes and scrambles going up-hill with a load on will get you in shape for this trip. The goal needs to be comfort with traveling uphill as much as 1200m vertical gain, with a load of approximately 15kg.

You should be comfortable climbing up to 5.7 rock in mountain boots. Try bringing your boots to the crag and top roping climbs in them which you usually do in rock shoes. 

Questions about the suitability of this trip? Send us an email. We’re happy to help you find or customize trips to suit your needs. 

Gear List


You will be carrying all of your gear on technical ground for the whole trip. Lightweight gear is essential. Bring only what you need. Temperatures on this trip could range from -5°C at night to around 25°C (+) during the day. Ensure all clothing and equipment are in good repair, and fitted properly to you:
 
Technical:
 
Available as a “Mountaineering Kit” rental add on ($70) when you book.
 
  • Helmet – UIAA approved and adjustable
  • 3x locking carabiners – at least one should be pear-shaped
  • 3x regular carabiners
  • Harness – a simple, lightweight alpine seat harness
  • Belay/rappel device
  • 7mm accessory cord – 2 x 5 metre lengths
  • Double shoulder length sewn sling – should be rated to 22kn
  • Crampons – simple, 10-point general mountaineering crampon (either step-in or strap- on are fine depending on your boots)
  • Ice axe – general mountaineering tool, 60-80cm depending on your height

Clothing:
 
  • Long underwear (top and bottom), poly-pro, wool or silk
  • Mid-weight jacket, wool, fleece, synthetic or down
  • Rain gear (jacket and pants)
  • Toque, wool or fleece
  • T-shirt or long-sleeved shirt (white or other light colour), synthetic
  • Lightweight hiking pants, nylon or similar
  • Gloves

Footwear:
 
  • Mountaineering boots (suitable for carrying a 25 lb. load over rough terrain) 
  • 2 x pairs of socks, wool or synthetic blend
  • 2 x pairs of liner socks, poly-pro or silk (optional)
  • Gaiters that fit your boots (optional)

Sleeping:
 
  • Sleeping bag (warm to -5°C?)
  • Therm-a-rest or other sleeping pad (available for rent)
  • Tent
  • Bivy Sac/Tent
 
Cooking:
 
  • Small cooking pot
  • Fuel canister 
  • Stove 
  • Lighter
  • 6 breakfast, 7 lunches (ready to eat), 6 dinner, various snacks – must be lightweight -- dehydrated and/or freeze dried meals recommended. For tasty, nutritous and locally pre-made meals check out https://wildedgeketo.com/
  • Eating vessel and utensils

Other:

  • Sun hat
  • Sunglasses with 100% UV block
  • Sunscreen, SPF lip balm
  • Toothbrush and a small container of toothpaste
  • 2 x 1 litre water bottles (or a 2L bladder)
  • Water purification system
  • Pocket knife
  • Head-lamp with spare batteries
  • Small first aid kit (optional)
  • Hiking poles (optional)
  • Camera (optional)
  • Hand sanitizer
  • A backpack big enough to fit the contents of this list (the smaller the better)

Group Gear Logistics

Your guide will bring along group emergency (first aid, communications device) and technical gear (the rope, the rack). You are only required to bring the items on this list.

Rentals

 
The following items are available for rent as an “Add On” when you book (or upon request). These are available on a first come, first serve basis:

  • Mountaineering Kit - $70

If you require other items from the personal gear list, perhaps check out Sports Rent based out of Victoria, Blue Toque Sports in Courtenay, and/or on social media pages. 

Questions? Send us an email or read our blog for advice on choosing appropriate gear. 

Testimonials

I have had the benefit of Jan's guiding on four separate occasions over the years. From an initial top rope rock climbing course, through to a wild expedition in the Waddington range, Jan has provided me with solid instruction and guiding to the highest standards. Jan's friendly nature and wide ranging conversational interests make his trips all the more entertaining. I recommend Jan without hesitation as a guide to your adventures. Mort Allingham, Comox, BC.