Tantalus Ascents

As low as:

$1,605.00 / person

(at 2:1 ratio)
  • STRENUOUSNESS
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  • TECHNICAL DIFFICULTY
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About


Join us for some superb climbing on big glaciers and clean granite in the spectacular Tantalus Range. A short helicopter trip from Squamish drops us in the amazing Serratus/Dione Col. Base camp will be set near the Jim Haberl hut*. We will spend three intensive days climbing objectives such as Mount Serratus, Dione, and Alpha, to name a few of the possibilities. Each day, we’ll enjoy short approaches from base camp to some of the finest alpine climbing in the southern coast range. 

*Please visit https://accvancouver.ca/jim-haberl-hut/ for updated Haberl Hut rental rates and policies (March 1 – Sept 30, 2022). Please request a custom quote if you would like to reserve the Haberl Hut for your trip.
 
These trips are done at lower ratios than our instructional trips to Tantalus to allow guiding of more ambitious objectives.

Included in the price:

  • 3 days with an ACMG guide
  • Return helicopter flights

Not included in the price:

  • Transportation to and from starting point
  • Food
  • Clothing
  • Personal equipment (technical gear available for rent)

Questions? Check out our FAQ page for details about our booking and cancellation policy, and other commonly asked questions.

Location


This trip is delivered in an alpine setting in the Tantalus Range. Terrain selected will vary, but will all be within close proximity of the Haberl Hut*. Base camp will be set near the hut. We gain access to this area by helicopter, leaving from the Squamish airport.  

*Please visit https://accvancouver.ca/jim-haberl-hut/ for updated Haberl Hut rental rates and policies (March 1 – Sept 30, 2022) . Please be request a custom quote if you would like to reserve the Haberl Hut for your trip.

Here are some details to consider when planning for this trip: 

  • Water comes from snow melt near the hut or by melting snow on our stoves
  • You may bring some luxuries, but please keep your luggage under 18kg/40lbs. Everything should also be packed in such a way that you could carry it downhill a significant distance - in the rare instance that weather precludes the helicopter picking us up where it dropped us off. 
  • There is an outhouse at the hut

These trips typically run June to September when conditions are more likely to be optimal.

Itinerary


We typically start by meeting at the helicopter base at 08:30 on the first day of the trip. For the following days, start and end times of the day will depend on objectives chosen and conditions. On day one, we’ll fly into the Serratus/Dione Col.  From there, the itinerary will be entirely dependent on the group, guide, and the conditions at the time of the trip. On day three we will fly back to the helicopter base in Squamish. 

Exact meeting details will be provided in a pre-trip email sent one-week prior to your trip. 
 
Questions? Check out our FAQ page for details, or send us an email. 

 Requirements


This is a physically and technically demanding trip, meaning training and/or experience in basic mountain skills are recommended. If you wish to join this trip, you will ideally have:

  • Logged some time hiking and scrambling in the mountains
  • Taken a mountain skills course covering movement on snow and glaciers, crevasse rescue and are comfortable scrambling on rock, or have equivalent experience if you have not taken a course
  • Comfort climbing low-fifth class terrain in hiking boots
  • The ability to hike 500-700 m of elevation under a 20 lbs load
  • The capacity to travel on foot for up to 8 hours

Preparation

Regular hikes going up-hill with a load on will get you in shape for this trip. You’ll only need to carry a day pack for most of this trip but you should certainly wear a pack of about 10kg when you train. You should be comfortable climbing up to low 5th class rock in boots (bring your boots to the crag and try top roping climbs in them which you usually do in rock shoes).

Questions about the suitability of this course? Send us an email. We’re happy to help you find or customize courses to suit your needs. 

 Gear List


Please ensure that all gear is functioning and in good repair. Temperatures encountered on this trip typically range from -5°C at night to the 20s during the day, depending on the time of year your trip is held.  Inside the hut at night is typically warmer than the outside temperature though the hut is not heated.

Technical: 

Available as a “Mountaineering Kit” rentaladd on ($45) when you book.

  • Helmet – UIAA approved and adjustable
  • Crampons – simple, ten point general mountaineering crampon (either step-in or strap- on are fine depending on your boots)
  • Ice axe – general mountaineering tool, 60-80cm depending on your height
  • 3x locking carabiners – at least one should be pear-shaped
  • 3x regular carabiners
  • Harness – a simple, lightweight alpine seat harness
  • Belay/rappel device
  • 7mm accessory cords – 2 x 5 metre lengths, 1 x 1.75 metre length
  • Double shoulder length sewn sling – should be rated to 22kn 
  • 1-2 ice screws

Clothing

  • Long underwear (top and bottom) — merino wool preferred, but poly pro will also suffice 
  • Mid-weight soft-shell jacket — down, wool, fleece or synthetic
  • Insulated jacket - down or synthetic
  • Waterproof shells (jacket and pants) — especially necessary for practicing self-arrests 
  • Warm toque — for cooler evenings 
  • T-shirt or long-sleeved shirt – white cotton can be excellent for cooling and sun protection during the height of summer
  • Hiking pants – nylon or similar
  • 2x Gloves — one lightweight, one warmer 

Footwear: 

  • Mountaineering boots — stiff, with a sharp cutting edge on the sole to effectively kick steps in snow
  • Rock shoes — we are unlikely to use these unless quite technical rock routes are a specific objective of the trip but they are handy to have along in case we are delayed in Squamish by no fly weather and want to go rock climbing in this world class rock climbing venue
  • Gaiters — optional if pants stay over boots with elastic cuff 
  • 2 x warm socks — wool or synthetic blend 
  • 2 x sock liners (optional) — silk or poly pro 
  • Hut/camp shoes -- down booties or light shoes for the evening


Sleeping/Food
Groups who book together may choose to share tents, food, and cooking equipment.

  • Sleeping bag — the warmth of your sleeping bag will depend on how you sleep (hot or cold) and the conditions at the time of your course, but at a minimum please bring something warm to at least -5 celcius. 
  • Sleeping pad
  • Tent – 3-season
  • Stove, fuel canister (compatible with stove), and cooking pot – available as an add on 
  • Eating vessels and utensils of choice 
  • Food — 2 breakfasts, 3 ready-made lunches (easily consumable on the go), 2 dinners, enough snacks to suit your individual needs. Dinners can be a little bit luxurious as this is a fly-in but do stick to the weight limits described. For tasty, nutritous and locally pre-made meals check out https://wildedgeketo.com/

Packs: 

  • 30L+ day pack (with waist belt) — big enough to carry your rain gear, fleece, water, lunch, and some of the group technical gear and ropes
  • 60L+ pack — something large enough to fit the items on this list in case of the need to carry to a lower elevation for helicopter pick-up

Other: 

  • Sun hat
  • Sunglasses with 100% UV block
  • Sunscreen and lip balm
  • Toothbrush and toothpaste
  • Toilet paper and ziplock
  • 2 x 1 litre water bottles
  • Water purification system — filter, tablets or drops 
  • Pocket knife
  • Headlamp with spare batteries
  • Small first aid kit (optional) 
  • Hiking poles (optional)
  • Reading material (optional)
  • Camera (optional)
  • Feminine hygiene supplies (if needed) 
  • Spare prescription glasses (if needed) 

Rentals


  • Technical Gear: Our Mountaineering Kit rental add on includes all the items on technical gear list, and is available for $45 ($15/day). These can be purchased when you book or requested later as an add on. 
  • Mountaineering Boots: If you require other from the personal gear list such as mountaineering boots, you can check out Sports Rent based out of Victoria.
  • Camp Kit: (includes tent and sleeping mat) - $45.00
  • Cook Kit: (includes pot, stove and fuel) - $50.00

Questions? Send us an email or read our blog for advice on choosing appropriate gear. 

Testimonials

I have taken a half dozen treks with various companies around the country climbing in Africa, Canada, Italy, Switzerland as well as a variety of places in the US and have had a number of guides who have assisted me in these ventures. None of them came close to holding a candle to the experience we had with Jan. Thank you. We will treasure our memories forever. Dan Stephenson, Temecula, California.
I've been climbing with Jan since our first trip in Nepal in 1989. We've climbed together almost every year since then in the European Alps, Yosemite, the Tetons, and both the Coast Range and on Vancouver Island in British Columbia. On every trip I have put my life in Jan's hands, and I've been comfortable doing so. He's very careful and very knowledgeable as a guide. He really does make my safety in the mountains his first priority. Jan is also always sensitive to my limits, both in thinking through each route (and sometimes each move on a section of a route), and in thinking through when he can push me a little to get past my fears, when I really am able to follow him. Beyond the question of safety, we've become good friends. You need someone you can talk to, in all moods, when you're sharing a tent for days. Jan can get along well with, and encourage, a very wide range of people. Ken Cohen, Boston, Massechusetts
Thanks for a wonderful weekend. Our long day Saturday was as exciting as it gets for me, with the snow and rocks all mixed together. All and all, three days of thrill rides. And then add the fresh halibut and great steaks, and hey – what a deal! It was great seeing you again, and climbing with you was far more of a treat than skiing with you, as much fun as that is. Hope I can make a deal with god to buy back another 10 years to keep it all up. I was so exhausted (as well as elated) that I fell asleep on the airplane coming home. What a terrific weekend – thanks so much! Bill Hargreaves, San Diego, California
Here is the photo evidence of three of the greatest climbers ever, and me; as well as two of the greatest guides. Let’s do it again! Bill Coffin, Los Angeles, California.
We had an incredible time. Jan is so knowledgeable and a terrific teacher. So impressed with him! :) Anna, Vancouver, BC
Fran and I both loved our time spent in the Tantalus. Although the trip is not cheap, we think it is well worth the money. The helicopter flight to the Jim Haberl hut is unforgettable and you quickly appreciate how useful it is to land on the snow and get straight to the climbing. Our guide, Alex Geary, was fantastic. He ensured we were kept out of our comfort zone, but we never felt in any real danger. He also made sure that were actively involved in the more technical sides of the climbing, rather than just "getting us to the top", which helped build our experience and knowledge base. He is an immensely competent guide and we wouldn't hesitate to recommend him. Thank you Island Alpine Guides for helping to organize an amazing trip. Anthony Dearden, Vancouver, BC